From Montserrat to Guadeloupe

Looks like the entire south
end of the island is ash.!

We left Antigua too early.  Susan wanted to wait but Jon won this time.  So after a great lunch at the Catamaran Hotel in Falmouth Harbor, Antigua, we took off.  We had a rollicking sail  from Antigua with 20-25k off our port quarter.  It was a beautiful day and we were averaging 5.5 knots, with  a lot of 6.5s and even a few 7s thrown in.  Only problem was we were making too good a time and ended up finding our way into the anchorage at about 2100.   Cautiously approached customs/ferry anchorage but backed off close to what appeared a dark wall (cliff next morning) for another approach.  Dropped anchor in 15' but dragged and/or swung anchor next morning into the ferry channel.  Rain with the same wind most of night and tired from bracing ourselves and moderately hard steering trying to avoid gybed over the fast passage.

Raising the anchor took a little longer than
usual.  This rock was firmly lodged in
the claw!

After resting up and raising the anchor, we headed south along

Plymouth, buried in ash.  

the coast to the volcano exclusion zone.  Montserrat still has
an active volcano that has reduced the population by almost half and devastated the south end of the island and its once main city, Plymouth.  Now, buried in ash, the ruins could be seen as we motored past.


The rest of the sail to Guadeloupe was sloppy in confused seas.  After almost 9 hours from our Montserrat anchorage in Little Harbor, we secured Toi et Moi to a free mooring in Deshais, Guadeloupe.

Deshais

We love the scale of the anchorage; a fishing village which welcomes

Mooring  bouys also serve as mini-reefs.
Fishermen check them daily!

tourism.  The town installed 25 free moorings for cruisers because holding was questionable.  Colorful waterfront of assorted architecture mostly restaurants, businesses and dwellings.  Nothing large or out of scale.  A church steeple towers over the town, chiming every hour.All this with a backdrop of steep hills only partially dotted with uncrowded villas their

multicolored rooftops softly nestled in the surrounding lush green. This village doubles as the town of Honore on the BBC series, Death in Paradise.

Opti tending the main sheet!

Amazing how much closer we have gotten to Opti during the cruise and she to us.  And to think we weighed whether or not to lodge her with Janice or to have her remain onboard as crew.  Today somewhat socked in with rain, Opti for this first time ever, made her way into the aft cabin sole twice during rain without any coaxing.  This with the diesel running to charge batteries with the associated aromas, noise and heat behind the aft engine access.  Often times after her walk/swim she readies by the dinghy to climb aboard without any coaxing.

Pigeon Island

Moored at Pigeon Island

Motored to Jaque Cousteau Marine Reserve; both yellow moorings vacant so took one rather than anchor.  This because winds were more SW and islets provided just as much protection but still rolly.  As the sun set the mainland's mountain backdrop even more lush and fertile looking from this distance.  Snorkeled early then slipped the mooring and continued south to Isle de Saints.

Isle le Saints

At anchor Les Saintes

Rebuilt church tower marks the end of
the "vehicle free" zone.

We grabbed a mooring in Le Bourge around 1430.  Les Saintes are actually a group of islands and dominated by Terre de Haute, where we explored.  Some describe the island as a funky St. Barths 25 years ago... Lots of visitors but without the rich and famous aura.  The town was adorable, filled with colorful houses, shops and restaurants.  Very Creole!  We enjoyed exploring this island by land and sea, spending lots of time snorkeling around the archipelago and scootering up and down hills to hidden harbors and spectacular lookouts.

Sunset at Les Saintes

We enjoyed our stay in Guaeloupe but decided to clear out and head to new adventures.  Next island, Dominica.


Frigate birds - in Florida I don't think I ever saw them up close; they were always soaring high over Tampa Bay.  Isle de Saints is an excellent place to observe them up close and personable.  They fly low, still soaring, fishing in the Barbour.  What a joy to watch.

Antigua

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain

After a 30 hour sail, Opti has her senses focused on the beautiful beaches and mountains in Jolly Harbor, Antigua.

 Cleared in and explored this ex-pat community, doing laundry, grocery shopping and enjoying this community.  After 2 days it was time to move on and see the real Antigua...English Harbor.  Home of Admiral Nelson's Dockyard.

Explored the Dockyard then trekked up to Fort Berkley overlooking English Harbour.  followed by draft Wadalli, an Antiguan beer.  Afterwards, we dinghied across the harbor to let Opti swim while we bathed, snorkeled  and scrubbed the bottom of the dinghy.  Susan discovered that sand works pretty well on green sea slime.

Is it time to go back to the boat

Fort Berkley

Old tree in the dockyard

Jon enjoying his carbs.

We enjoyed the low key Dockyard Museum very much!

Busts Jon likes!

Boats Jon likes.

Saturday, August 9, we took the local bus to St. John's and back.  We were the only whites on it.  The guy behind let Jon open his dual row seat window all the way at the sacrifice of air on his part.  After bumping hands in thanks, thinking is all the cruise ship whites must take a private tour bus to English Harbour and other points of interest.  They miss so much humanity.  It seemed one continuous settlement(s) during the 30-40 min. ride from English Harbour to St. John's, Antigua's capital.  A diversity of churches seemingly every mile pointed to a religious island.

We walked the streets and enjoyed a thriving Saturday market but forgot to provision in the colorful veggie stands before returning.  To "rehydrate" we had a Caribe over ice (it works for us) and later, a great late lunch at C&C wine bar, including 4 samples of S. African vino with olives, bruschetta and Capri over eggplant, one of Susan's favorite variations on this theme.  Curious and somewhat in need, we even sprung for a couple of pieces of bamboo clothing.  3% cooler than cotton as if we could tell the difference.  Back early to Opti's delight for a welcomed pee ashore and finished off the evening with one of Susan's great makeshift pizzas and another episode of "24" (Susan bought the CDs last trip when visiting her dad).


Rented a vehicle to explore more of the island.  Went through a lush, tropical forest to a coastal road that we saw while sailing.  Discovered great beaches, local beach bars, forts and harbors; even met a guy who restores and maintains Land Rovers.  On a live ability scale, Antigua rates a 10,

Shirley Heights- a look out for English Harbor

The view of English Harbor from Shirley Heights.  We are tucked in
to the smallest finger, right in the middle of the picture.

Two of about 35 Land Rovers we discovered at a repair shop
near English Harbor,

Boys playing cricket near Carlyle Bay/

OJ's Beach Bar.  Enjoyed mussels and wings and a cold beverage.
Live jazz on weekends 

Fort overlooking St. John's Bay

Next day we picked up anchor and motored to Falmouth to re-fuel and water up.  Time to "explore, dream, discover". Casted away our dock lines and headed to Montserrat and Guadeloupe.

St. Barthelemy

St. Barthelemy, St. Bart's, or St. Barths-- many names for the same place.  We are here, currently waiting out Tropical Storm Bertha.  (Thanks, Andy, for the weather updates!!) We left Marigot late on the 28th after clearing out and fueling up.  After anchoring overnight at Anse Marcel where Ian and Maggy explored by dinghy and recommended, we motored 19 miles to Gustavia, the capital on July 29th.  Jon is happy to report that the newly rewelded motor mount brackets and alignment appear to be holding.  Although the seas were not calm but normal for trades, Jon was also able to rig and test a tiller autopilot directly connected to the emergency tiller for a couple of hours.  Surprisingly it maintained course within 5 degrees although time will tell what toll it took on the pilot motor.  The tiller pilot was bought with the idea to rig it to the Aires wind vane to guide the F40 but it didn't work that way.

After arriving we took a mooring in the outer harbor, only to be kicked off just before heading in to the port offices.  Released the moorings then started hunting for a place to anchor in the 20-30 feet of water.  Luckily, a nice gentleman in a catamaran spotted us and directed us to his friend's mooring. He would be out of town for a while and we were welcome to use it.  We gratefully accepted his offer and went to check in.  Nine Euros a night, which includes dinghy dock, showers, wifi, garbage and water.  The dinghy dock is across from the grocery store and the port offices have everything one would need.  Very friendly and worth it!.  We repaid our friend with a bottle of wine and a lot of 'Merci"s for making our stay here pleasant.

Today the sun is shining and the wind and rain of Bertha are a thing of the past. Time to move on!

Customs boat, leaving the fuel dock in Marigot.  They boarded us earlier in the week;
apparently remembering Toi Et Moi, crew waved and smiled to us

                        Sunset at Anse Marcel.  Beautiful, secluded anchorage but quite rolly.

Approaching St. Barth

Overlooking the outer harbor of Gustovia from Ft. Gustave/Lighthouse.
Toi et Moi between Jon and the cannon!

Saw these before entering the beach.  Finally asked someone what it was.
If you are going to smoke, take a can for your butts

Salt pond, beach and rocks along the eastern coastline

Saline Beach

Discovered these in St. Martin:  Kenets.
They are sweet and you can grill the seed. 

In St. Barth we discovered the kenet tree.
If you look closely you can see the fruit.

Food is definitely different
here!  On the streets of St.
Martin they were selling
bunches of these berries
for $1.  Didn't really know
what they were until we got to St. Barth.