Panama, Finally!

On December 2, 2013, we left Boot Key Harbor and pointed our bow towards Panama.  The plan was to head through the Windward Passage and go directly to Bocas del Toro.  No stops along the way.  We could rest when we got there.  Well, we ran into a few hiccups along the way and took the 'scenic' route, enjoying every island stop we made.  Finally, after two and a half years we arrived!  With the help of Ian and Maggy, Toi et Moi is resting at Shelter Bay Marina at the Caribbean end of the Panama Canal.  

It was an exciting time to be in Panama! We were there firsthand to witness the finishing touches to the Panama Canal Expansion Project.  This was a massive undertaking, which doubled the capacity of the canal, adding a new and wider lane of traffic which allows for larger ships to transit.  While there we also experienced the ongoing construction, traffic delays and confusion inherent in such a major undertaking.

You are able to drive over the locks however the route to Colon is a lot longer.  The Panamanians were promised a bridge, set to open at the same time as the new locks.  This would greatly reduce travel times for many who work on one side of the locks and live on the other.  Sadly, you can see in the background the status of the new bridge.  In the meantime people wanting to get from one side to another must wait for a ferry.  The ferry ride is short but the wait is long.  The locals were promised at least two ferries, however one was being used exclusively for canal construction while we were there.  

None the less, we enjoyed watching the opening on local TV with other cruisers at the marina.  Tickets for the actual event were gone long before we arrived in Panama.

There is a tradition in the Azores that yachts crossing the Atlantic leave a painting or sketch representing their yacht on the  sea wall.  Like the Azores, the Panama Canal represents another big step-- going from the Atlantic to the Pacific.  The newly opened sail loft at the marina has begun allowing boats transiting to the canal to leave their mark on the outside of the old theater building, where they keep shop.  Toi et Moi isn't up there yet.  We will have to wait and see what the future brings!

Shelter Bay Marina is located on what was once Fort Sherman, a US Military Base. The base was turned over to Panama in 1999 and pretty much abandoned.  Guards still stand watch at the gated entrance, keeping track of who comes and goes but the whole area is pretty much a ghost town.  Without all the usual chaos of civilization, it made for a great place to explore. 

The best paved surface in the area is the old runway, still in usable shape.  The Panamanian Coast Guard and National  Naval Air Service maintain small outposts here.  

Also within walking distance is San Lorenzo National Park.  This area was also used for jungle warfare training when still under US Military command.   No more soldiers but plenty of wildlife (including several species of monkeys, sloths, capybara and this friendly land crab) occupy the old base and park.  

Talk about a ghost town. When you enter the gated compound you drive past the remnants of what was once a very active and alive military base.  I suspect these abandoned duplexes once housed the junior grade officers. Behind these overgrown houses I discovered a tennis and basketball court (no longer usable).   Further up the road looked like what may have been barracks for the enlisted men and way up over the ridge I discovered the ruins of the general's house.  

Jon was thrilled to find this abandoned handball court behind what used to be the Ocean Breeze Recreation Complex.  

Blocking the way to the handball courts was this parade of leaf carrying ants.

This area is known for its flora and fauna.  It is also a top birding destination.  I, however, was more interested in this almond tree.  Too bad you can't just pick and eat them right from the branch!

Now Toi et Moi is out of the water, taking a bit of a vacation.  Many cruisers we have met along the way routinely put their boats on the hard for several months so they can travel home to family and friends or avoid hurricane season.  Panama is out of the hurricane zone but it was time Jon and I headed back to the states to start the downsizing process.  We have a lot of new adventures ahead of us, but for now, we will be sticking around the states for a few months and making some changes here. 

And, of course, Opti joined us!  One of the reasons Jon has not been able to  make it back to the states has been Opti.  We can't bear to leave her and didn't want to crate her for air travel.  She is now 14 and has never flown before, but there is always a first.  Luckily we were able to put her in the airplane cabin with us and she was a real trooper!  Slept the whole way, just like Jon!  Now we can ALL enjoy a little land time.

Aruba and then...

Time to leave Curacao!  What a treat to go through the Queen Emma Bridge and having Ian and Maggy on board.  I had not been sailing since I broke my ankle and was anxious to get my sea legs back.

It felt great to get to a new island after an overnight sail.  Getting into port was a little tricky as Mr. Perkins decided to take some time off.  After bleeding the engine we managed to make it to the customs dock but were told to go to the main harbor as the wind was blustery and the dock was crowded.  All told, we managed to check in  with customs and immigrations and dock Toi et Moi before lunch, leaving plenty of time for a swim!

We had heard wonderful things about the Renaissance Marina in Oranjestad, Aruba's capital and largest city.  Those wonderful things were all true.  We had access to all the amenities of a top notch resort hotel including three pools and two private beaches. The marina was right in the heart of the city with all the conveniences, including a Starbucks, within easy reach. Not bad for $28 a day!  The views weren't bad either!

After living in the Keys for almost 10 years, I have grown accustom to the iguanas, so prevelent there and in the Caribbean islands.  As a Floridian, lizards don't faze me much as well.  BUT I just loved the color of this little guy.  

My chair was waiting at one of the two beaches.  

Beach number two was actually a private island!  The resort had launches that ferried guests (including us) back and forth. The island actually had two separate beaches, one for adults only and a second one that was kid friendly.  

These guys are residents of the adult only beach.  

On our final day here we rented a car and toured the island.  Our first stop was Baby's Beach at the southwest end of the island.  Beautiful water and a great beach bar with a Flinstones theme. Yabba dabba doo!

Continuing the tradition, while at Baby's Beach we had to try the local beer-- Balashi.  This Euro Pale Lager is brewed and bottled on the island and has a light bubbly taste.  Very refreshing! 

Our next stop was The Butterfly Farm of Aruba.  You can wander around this enclosed botanical garden  on your own  but the best way to truly educate yourself is to take a tour or talk with some of the passionate volunteers that staff the place. 

The farm is home for hundreds of exotic butterflies from all over the world.  

We toured the island from stem to stern.  The California Lighthouse guards the northwest tip of the island.  Aruba, like Curacao, is a dry, rugged island with rough terrain.  Much of its coastline is remote and not accessible by car. 

It's not a Balashi and it's not from an island.  Jon and I headed back to St. Petersburg for some quality land time together.  Jon especially enjoyed his first visit to the Hoffbrau House, formerly the St. Pete Times  (oops, now the Tampa Bay Times) cafeteria. My how Times change!

We may be enjoying some land time but Toi et Moi, Ian, Maggy and Opti continue sailing.  The F40 points her bow  toward Cartagena, where Ian and Maggy had visited on their Pan American journey.  This view is a lot different for them.  Next stop, Panama!  To continue following Toi et Moi's adventures check out Ian and Maggy's blog,...the1st3rd.com.  Meanwhile I'll let you know what we are up to here!

The Sun Sets on Curacao: Getting Ready for a New Adventure

     

The sun is slowly setting on our time here in Curacao. The winds keep blowing and we are making progress. The past few months have brought a sail, boom, and visitors.  Life is definitely good.

The sail that was supposed to take a month to arrive, finally arrived!  Now we have two new sails.  We moved our one year old forward sail aft and put our new one forward.  I just love the sound of crisp, new sails.

When Jon arrived in Curacao he mentioned a small dent in the aft boom. After taking off the aft sail, the diagnosis was a little more serious

But, luckily, there was a very capable welder near the marina who fabricated a new boom in a week.  Since the previous 2 inch tubing failed, he was able to use 2.5 inch and still maintain the size, shape and form of our original boom.

Since we were still at the boatyard, and a garden was growing below our waterline, we decided to splash on some bottom paint.  Our original plan was to remove all the old paint and switch from ablative to hard paint, however that process would have dragged on and we were not willing to wait.  We were expecting company.

And Ian arrived!  He had not been down to visit since St. Martin so, of course, we had to celebrate!

And he wanted to see the island. We headed to Shete Boka National Park, where we hiked the out of this world terrain.

This spot on the rocky, wave exposed north coast, is an example of the rugged, desert-like land that covers most of the island.  There are 6 small inlets where waves fill underwater caves and outcroppings and explode into beautiful plumes like theses at Boka Tabla. 

 Ian had to head back to the states for work, but he would be back very soon. 

While Ian was at work, Maggy came to visit.  We explored the ruins of Fort Beekenberg, built in 1703 from stones salvaged from the ballast of sunken ships.  This fort was built to defend Spanish Waters, which was (and still is) easily accessible from the sea to land.

And while Jon completed some projects, Maggy and I enjoyed some beach time at Kokomos.

Before we knew it, Ian was flying back.  On our way to pick him up at the airport we visited Hato Caves.  Escaped slaves used these caves as hiding places, and lived in them for months at a time. Even before the arrival of the slaves, the Arawak Indians used them for shelter, and left behind cave drawings that are over 1,500 years old.  Many see faces of pirates, turtles and Jack in the Beanstalk.  What do you see in this formation?

Now that the whole gang is together it's time to go sailing. We are lucky enough to have two merchant mariners at the helm.  Looking forward to someone else doing the driving! Next stop, Aruba!

Stuck in the Middle

Seems a song has been running through Jon's head a lot lately; not so much for the Facebook posts regarding clowns and jokers, but for the situation.  Yes, Jon is stuck in the middle, with me and Opti.  

We are the blue dot.  The island group we are 'stuck in the middle' of are the ABC's.   From Grenada, the order of approach is Bonaire, Curacao and Aruba.  We are berthed at Curacao Marine, a little south of the center of Curacao. At first we were waiting for my ankle to get a little stronger.  Now we are waiting for a new aft sail and a weather window.  But in the meantime, we are making the best of it.  

One of the reasons we are where we are is the proximity to Willemstad, the capital city and a UNESCO World Heritage site..  Along the waterfront, Venezuelan fishing boats  bring fish, fruit and veggies to the floating marketplace.  

We rented a car for a week to tour the island and check out other anchorages. This is the view of Spanish Waters, the most popular spot for cruising sailboats.  Although beautiful, it is not very convenient to town, groceries or boating supplies.  So, looks like we will stay where we are for a while. 

Our marina is close to the main port and oil refinery on the island.  In the distance you may be able to see the masts of the marina.  The view here is from Fort Nassau, and 18th century fort at the harbor's entrance.

The fort also houses a great restaurant where we had a wonderful 3 course meal with 360 degree city views of day turning into night!

We were lucky enough to be here for Carnival.  Like  Carnival in Grenada, the sights and sounds will overwhelm you.  My  friend, Jill, and and I headed out to the Children's Parade in Otrobanda, across the river from Punda.  These two areas make up Willemstad proper. 

Like almost any capital city, there is graffiti (or public art).  This one caught my attention, not just for the beauty but for the thought:
  "Once you break the walls that's been holding you captive, your journey to explore the world can finally begin".

Curacao is not a very mountainous island and the church in the distance can be seen for quite a ways on the north end of the island.  Behind me are the wading flamingoes at the Flamingo Sanctuary. 

Lots of great beaches, hidden coves and great snorkeling can be found on the northwest coast of the island. 

This cove reminds of somewhere else, although I don't know where.  The landscape was greener, the water darker, and the terrain rougher than other parts of the island.    Unfortunately, the entrance to this place looked a little iffy for Toi et Moi. 

We do enjoy hanging downtown, watching the ships in the distance.  It was amazing to see this huge container ship heading through the small Queen Emma pedestrian bridge that joins Punda and Otrobanda. 

One thing we have always enjoyed stateside is biking.  We hauled our bikes on board for two years, and hardly ever used them.  They took up a lot of valuable space and wouldn't fit down below.  Salt water took its toll and Jon and I decided to just leave them in Grenada.  Of course, little did we know, Curacao was a much flatter island and getting around by bike could be done...carefully.  We decided on our next trip to the states we would invest in two folding bikes.  We mentioned this to our boat neighbors, Jo and Jack,  and they just happened to have 2 full size folders they never used.  We gladly took them off their hands and have enjoyed our Sunday bike tours. 

One of our favorite routes is the beach road.  We stop at one of the beach bars, have a drink and take a dip.  One  Sunday, we spotted a bunch of swimmers in the water and the roads were a bit more crowded.  Turns out it was the annual Ride/Walk/Swim for the Roses.  This year over 10,000 people walked, rode or swam a prescribed distance to raise cancer awareness and funds to fight the disease.  Good thing I didn't know about it in advance.  I wouldn't have known which event to choose!