Panama, Finally!

On December 2, 2013, we left Boot Key Harbor and pointed our bow towards Panama.  The plan was to head through the Windward Passage and go directly to Bocas del Toro.  No stops along the way.  We could rest when we got there.  Well, we ran into a few hiccups along the way and took the 'scenic' route, enjoying every island stop we made.  Finally, after two and a half years we arrived!  With the help of Ian and Maggy, Toi et Moi is resting at Shelter Bay Marina at the Caribbean end of the Panama Canal.  

It was an exciting time to be in Panama! We were there firsthand to witness the finishing touches to the Panama Canal Expansion Project.  This was a massive undertaking, which doubled the capacity of the canal, adding a new and wider lane of traffic which allows for larger ships to transit.  While there we also experienced the ongoing construction, traffic delays and confusion inherent in such a major undertaking.

You are able to drive over the locks however the route to Colon is a lot longer.  The Panamanians were promised a bridge, set to open at the same time as the new locks.  This would greatly reduce travel times for many who work on one side of the locks and live on the other.  Sadly, you can see in the background the status of the new bridge.  In the meantime people wanting to get from one side to another must wait for a ferry.  The ferry ride is short but the wait is long.  The locals were promised at least two ferries, however one was being used exclusively for canal construction while we were there.  

None the less, we enjoyed watching the opening on local TV with other cruisers at the marina.  Tickets for the actual event were gone long before we arrived in Panama.

There is a tradition in the Azores that yachts crossing the Atlantic leave a painting or sketch representing their yacht on the  sea wall.  Like the Azores, the Panama Canal represents another big step-- going from the Atlantic to the Pacific.  The newly opened sail loft at the marina has begun allowing boats transiting to the canal to leave their mark on the outside of the old theater building, where they keep shop.  Toi et Moi isn't up there yet.  We will have to wait and see what the future brings!

Shelter Bay Marina is located on what was once Fort Sherman, a US Military Base. The base was turned over to Panama in 1999 and pretty much abandoned.  Guards still stand watch at the gated entrance, keeping track of who comes and goes but the whole area is pretty much a ghost town.  Without all the usual chaos of civilization, it made for a great place to explore. 

The best paved surface in the area is the old runway, still in usable shape.  The Panamanian Coast Guard and National  Naval Air Service maintain small outposts here.  

Also within walking distance is San Lorenzo National Park.  This area was also used for jungle warfare training when still under US Military command.   No more soldiers but plenty of wildlife (including several species of monkeys, sloths, capybara and this friendly land crab) occupy the old base and park.  

Talk about a ghost town. When you enter the gated compound you drive past the remnants of what was once a very active and alive military base.  I suspect these abandoned duplexes once housed the junior grade officers. Behind these overgrown houses I discovered a tennis and basketball court (no longer usable).   Further up the road looked like what may have been barracks for the enlisted men and way up over the ridge I discovered the ruins of the general's house.  

Jon was thrilled to find this abandoned handball court behind what used to be the Ocean Breeze Recreation Complex.  

Blocking the way to the handball courts was this parade of leaf carrying ants.

This area is known for its flora and fauna.  It is also a top birding destination.  I, however, was more interested in this almond tree.  Too bad you can't just pick and eat them right from the branch!

Now Toi et Moi is out of the water, taking a bit of a vacation.  Many cruisers we have met along the way routinely put their boats on the hard for several months so they can travel home to family and friends or avoid hurricane season.  Panama is out of the hurricane zone but it was time Jon and I headed back to the states to start the downsizing process.  We have a lot of new adventures ahead of us, but for now, we will be sticking around the states for a few months and making some changes here. 

And, of course, Opti joined us!  One of the reasons Jon has not been able to  make it back to the states has been Opti.  We can't bear to leave her and didn't want to crate her for air travel.  She is now 14 and has never flown before, but there is always a first.  Luckily we were able to put her in the airplane cabin with us and she was a real trooper!  Slept the whole way, just like Jon!  Now we can ALL enjoy a little land time.