Out and About in Grenada-- An Island Tour

Since we have been here for a while, I decided it was time to see ALL of this beautiful island, not just the grocery store and ships chandlery.  So a few friends and I booked a bus and started our tour high above St .George.  As you can see it was a busy day.... the cruise ship was in!

Cutty was our driver and guide today.  He is quite knowledgeable about everything Grenada.  Here he shows us a noni.  This fruit is made into a popular health juice but stinks like limburger cheese! 

North of St. George is the fishing village of Grand Mal.  Here are the fishermen hauling in the nets.  You'd be surprised at how many larger fish they got this close to shore.

  

Grenada is famous for its nutmeg.  All along our route we saw wild nutmeg trees.

When the fruit splits the nutmeg is ripe.  The red casing on the outside of the nut is mace.  The dried fruit and old shells are used for mulch.  The fragrance is unbelievable!

Cocoa trees along our route.  These are favorites of the local children, so much so that they are not allowed near schools!  To access the bean you break open the pod.  The beans are processed, similar to coffee.  I had the opportunity to taste the raw bean and  can understand why the kids find them such a tasty treat!

Once the beans are removed from the cocoa pod, they are placed on drying beds.  We were able to visit the Jouvay chocolate factory.  Yes, free samples were included with the visit!

The view from Petit Anse, at the northern tip of the island.  In the distance you can see Petit Martinique and Kick 'em Jenny rocks.  There is also a Kick 'em Jack rocks.  These are named after the female and male donkeys.

Of course, every island has its rum and Grenada is no exception.  The River Antoine Rum Factory has been producing rum for over 200 years and they still do it the old fashioned way. Local sugar cane is gathered and run through  the water driven conveyer belt to the crusher below.  Here the juice is extracted.  This particular rum is agricole rum. It's rough!  Unlike many rums, no molasses is used, giving it a taste a step above moonshine!

On the way back to St. George we cut across the island and through the rain forest of the Grand Etang Reserve.  Here we spotted several Mona monkeys who seemed to know Cutty.  Perhaps it was the bananas he bribed them with!

Our final stop was the Annandale Falls.  Although not the tallest falls on the island,  they are quite beautiful and popular with the cruise ship passengers.  We shared this beautiful spot with busloads of passengers getting an 8 hour glimpse of Grenada.  I hope they enjoyed all the sights, sounds, and smells as much as I did!

Grenada-- For A While

We arrived October 1st  to the bustling town and capital city of Grenada-- St. Georges.  We went into the 'lagoon' and stopped at the Grenada Yacht Club for fuel and water.  We asked about a mooring and for the same price ($20 US) they put us in the first slip we've been in since Turks and Caicos.  It was also our first attempt at a Mediterranean mooring.  Think we would rather anchor out!

Nicholas helped push us off the mangroves with his skiff.  We
gladly gave him some extra gas for his efforts.

 On October 2nd, we headed to Woburn Bay where our good friends, Will and Cheryl,  were  anchored.  Our first night in Woburn proved to be quite memorable.  We woke up at 3AM aground in the mangroves. Will and Cheryl looked out at the crack of dawn and didn't see us, so came over to lend a hand.  After we were back afloat we managed to drop the hook too close to another boat and in too deep water, get a line wrapped around the prop, place our bowsprit under the lifeline of another boat, let go of an anchor, and finally reset our second anchor right before another squall set in.  All's well that ends well with special thanks to the crews of Varua and Flying Buzzard and Nicholas!

So now that we are settled in we go about the usual tasks,  Luckily I was fully clothed and had shoes on before going to the grocery store.  

We went to our first Dinghy Concert at La Phar Bleu Marina.  Great live music, lots of cruisers, people passing food and beer back and forth.  Reminded me of a cruiser's Woodstock. Of course, cruisers have to be in before dark, and we were!

We had a blast with Cheryl and Will at the concert!

Woburn bay, where we will stay for a while as we do some upgrades to Toi et Moi.  Hopefully when we leave here we will have a new sail (blew out our mainsail in a squall before arriving in Grenada), a hardtop/bimini for much needed shade and protection, and a new crew member-- an auto-pilot-- to help with the steering.

In the meantime, we stay busy.  I go noodling near Hog Island several times a week.  Here are a bunch of noodlers on the 'noodle bus'.  I also play  Mexican train dominoes and Jon, when he isn't busy with boat chores,  has been  trying to keep up with his tai chi. 

While I was in Florida, visiting friends and family, Jon and Opti guarded Toi et Moi.  When these two aliens arrived on Halloween, Jon fended them off with treats!

Whisper Cover Marina, our tie to land!  This great little marina, owned by a French Canadian couple, has fresh baked baguettes, a fabulous meat market (Meat and Meet), a welcoming bar and great food.  The owners live aboard and are cruiser friendly, allowing anchored boats to use their dinghy dock. 

St. Lucia and Beyond

Marigot Bay, St. Lucia.  Truly a tropical paradise.  We took a mooring and enjoyed the best meal of our cruise at Rainforest Hideaway.  Great food, ambiance and live jazz in paradise.  Can't ask for much more.

Approaching the Pitons, our anchorage for the night.

Toi et Moi from the shore of Admiralty Bay in Bequia, our first stop in the Grenadines.

Not our state of mind, but a local sailing craft in Bequia.

Leaving Admiralty Bay we passed a neighborhood of houses built out of  rocks,caves and cliffs.  Some of these homes are for sale, some are completely restored and inhabited.  Moon Hole is an interesting neighborhood for sure!  

Union Island's fancy dinghy dock.  We landed here to clear out of St. Vincent, an island we didn't go to. Bequia and Union are part of the St. Vincent Grenadines.

Sometimes internet is hard to find.  This wireless station is on the island of Curacao, where we checked in to Grenada. 

Martinique... A Touch of French

At anchor in Sainte Pierre... One of our favorite Martinique anchorages, filled with a lot of history.  The French traded a way a bit of snow (Canada!) to gain possession of the small island.  

In 1902, Mount Pelee' erupted killing over 30 thousand of the town's residents.  Most were urged to come to the Theater as it was large and well built and  they would be safe.  Sadly, they were not and the cultural center of Martinique (and the Caribbean) was destroyed.

Fifteen years later, Rodin's assistant created this piece.  It symbolizes the town of St. Pierre, determined to lift itself up from the ashes.  Jon can feel her pain!

Walked to the DePaz rum factory.  This was also destroyed by the volcano but has come back from ashes as well.  Here are fields of sugar cane overlooking the coast, the view from the DePaz family chateau.

On a visit to the town of Fort De France we discovered a second Toi et Moi!  Wanted to buy a t-shirt with the logo but they didn't sell them.  Only Marshall University clothes, which Jon appreciated!

Anchored in front of Fort St. Louis.  We both had our French flags flying. 

Diamond Rock, on the way to Le Marin, the marine center of Martinique.

On the beach near Le Marin, local boats gather every Sunday to practice.  This one's sails reflect the local beer, Lorraine.

Nothing but masts in Le Marin.  There are over 1000 boats in the marinas alone.  Many more on moorings and at anchor.  

Dominica in Pictures

Dominica is an island of contrasts. We found this garden home in Portsmouth.

This brightly colored home caught our attention as well!

"Boat boys" are the norm here.   Michael was our vegetable
guy, paddling out each day to see if we needed anything.  We also bought a flag from him.

In Roseau, the capital city, we took a mooring in from Pancho.  We were this close
to shore in over 70 feet of water.  

We headed to downtown Roseau on a Sunday to find just about everything closed.  However, Fort Henry, a restored fort turned hotel/restaurant was open for business and we enjoyed a mid afternoon beverage and snack. 

Jon ripped his favorite swim trunks and wouldn't let me toss them.  We found a sewing place and they gladly stitched them up for 10 EC (about $3 US)

Visited the Roseau Free Library.  The librarian in me had to take a picture of the antique OPAC; yes, it is a card catalogue!

Hand made, cane fishing traps in Scott's Head, at the southern tip of the island

Rented a scooter and drove over mountains, through rain forests and bamboo jungles.

Fishermen gathering to compare their catches.

Rivers meets ocean on the windward side of the island.

Petit waterfall along the coastal road. 

From Montserrat to Guadeloupe

Looks like the entire south
end of the island is ash.!

We left Antigua too early.  Susan wanted to wait but Jon won this time.  So after a great lunch at the Catamaran Hotel in Falmouth Harbor, Antigua, we took off.  We had a rollicking sail  from Antigua with 20-25k off our port quarter.  It was a beautiful day and we were averaging 5.5 knots, with  a lot of 6.5s and even a few 7s thrown in.  Only problem was we were making too good a time and ended up finding our way into the anchorage at about 2100.   Cautiously approached customs/ferry anchorage but backed off close to what appeared a dark wall (cliff next morning) for another approach.  Dropped anchor in 15' but dragged and/or swung anchor next morning into the ferry channel.  Rain with the same wind most of night and tired from bracing ourselves and moderately hard steering trying to avoid gybed over the fast passage.

Raising the anchor took a little longer than
usual.  This rock was firmly lodged in
the claw!

After resting up and raising the anchor, we headed south along

Plymouth, buried in ash.  

the coast to the volcano exclusion zone.  Montserrat still has
an active volcano that has reduced the population by almost half and devastated the south end of the island and its once main city, Plymouth.  Now, buried in ash, the ruins could be seen as we motored past.


The rest of the sail to Guadeloupe was sloppy in confused seas.  After almost 9 hours from our Montserrat anchorage in Little Harbor, we secured Toi et Moi to a free mooring in Deshais, Guadeloupe.

Deshais

We love the scale of the anchorage; a fishing village which welcomes

Mooring  bouys also serve as mini-reefs.
Fishermen check them daily!

tourism.  The town installed 25 free moorings for cruisers because holding was questionable.  Colorful waterfront of assorted architecture mostly restaurants, businesses and dwellings.  Nothing large or out of scale.  A church steeple towers over the town, chiming every hour.All this with a backdrop of steep hills only partially dotted with uncrowded villas their

multicolored rooftops softly nestled in the surrounding lush green. This village doubles as the town of Honore on the BBC series, Death in Paradise.

Opti tending the main sheet!

Amazing how much closer we have gotten to Opti during the cruise and she to us.  And to think we weighed whether or not to lodge her with Janice or to have her remain onboard as crew.  Today somewhat socked in with rain, Opti for this first time ever, made her way into the aft cabin sole twice during rain without any coaxing.  This with the diesel running to charge batteries with the associated aromas, noise and heat behind the aft engine access.  Often times after her walk/swim she readies by the dinghy to climb aboard without any coaxing.

Pigeon Island

Moored at Pigeon Island

Motored to Jaque Cousteau Marine Reserve; both yellow moorings vacant so took one rather than anchor.  This because winds were more SW and islets provided just as much protection but still rolly.  As the sun set the mainland's mountain backdrop even more lush and fertile looking from this distance.  Snorkeled early then slipped the mooring and continued south to Isle de Saints.

Isle le Saints

At anchor Les Saintes

Rebuilt church tower marks the end of
the "vehicle free" zone.

We grabbed a mooring in Le Bourge around 1430.  Les Saintes are actually a group of islands and dominated by Terre de Haute, where we explored.  Some describe the island as a funky St. Barths 25 years ago... Lots of visitors but without the rich and famous aura.  The town was adorable, filled with colorful houses, shops and restaurants.  Very Creole!  We enjoyed exploring this island by land and sea, spending lots of time snorkeling around the archipelago and scootering up and down hills to hidden harbors and spectacular lookouts.

Sunset at Les Saintes

We enjoyed our stay in Guaeloupe but decided to clear out and head to new adventures.  Next island, Dominica.


Frigate birds - in Florida I don't think I ever saw them up close; they were always soaring high over Tampa Bay.  Isle de Saints is an excellent place to observe them up close and personable.  They fly low, still soaring, fishing in the Barbour.  What a joy to watch.