St. Martin / Sint Marteen: Two Countries, One Island

Anchored, Marigot Bay

With a little bit of sadness but a couple bottles of Pussers in the hold, we slipped our mooring in Virgin Gorda and, 23 hours later, on June 19th, found ourselves anchored on the French side of St. Martin with starfish under our keel.  St. Martin (Sint Marteen, Dutch side) is 37 square miles in area yet it is divided between two countries.  We had heard it was easier and cheaper to clear in on the French side and I think we heard right.  Dinghied over to the lagoon, went online, paid $7.25, and that was that.  A walk over to the ferry docks and our passports were stamped.  Voila, we are now legal!  Walked around the town enjoying a little bit of France in the Leeward Islands.

Simpson Bay Lagoon where we cleared Customs.

Sculpture, Marina Fort Luis

The next day we took a bus($2/pp) to Phillipsburg, on the Dutch side of the island.  Phillipsburg is a quaint cruise ship town with lots of restaurants, bars, and shops.  World Cup fever took over the town as the French beat the Swiss, 5-0.  We couldn't help being swept up in the event and enjoying a few cold ones at a beachside eatery.  Throughout our stay we have continued to be caught up in World Cup fever.

Watching France beat Switzerland in the World Cup, Dutch side

On the waterfront in Phillipsburg

In Phillipsburg- a good overview of the island

St. Martin offers safe harbors, good provisioning and excellent marine facilities as well as somewhat reasonable air fares back to the states.  I flew back for a week to visit my dad, check on the condo and shop for what wasn't available in St. Martin. I also got to visit with friends and was there to greet Ian and Maggy when they arrived.  Congratulations to Maggy having just graduated from the United States Merchant Marine Academy!  It was a short visit but we were anxious to move on.  Ian and Maggy decided to join us and flew to St. Martin the day after I did.  However, they were unable to crew on our next leg as we waited for engine mount brackets to be welded.  Jon felt unusual engine vibrations enroute here and discovered one had sheered completely through.

The view of Simpson Bay and the Lagoon from the air

Always good to see my father!

Ian  exploring underwater

Ian and Maggy at Pic Paradis- the highest point on the island
at 1,391 feet

So nice to have a new to us inflatable and a
reliable 9.8 outboard that can get us around!

Maggy trying out Snuba for the first time, long line & tank aboard

In the meantime we have been exploring by car what we thought we would be discovering by sea.  Ian enjoyed kiteboarding and Jon enjoyed the nude beach at Orient Bay.   Lunch at Grand Case and dinghy trips through the lagoon to Cole Bay and Simpson Bay.    Not to mention all the sights, sounds and tastes available from our Marigot Bay anchorage.  Jazz nights at Aux Vins.  Conch at Chez Coco. On board, Ian and Maggy cleaned the F40's bottom, removed the servo rudder and shared sorely needed professionalism with essential cruising tasks.

Lunch and a view at Grand Case

Ian preparing to kite at Orient Bay

Trek up to Pic Paradis

Oyster Pond;  Half French/Half Dutch

Anchored nearby: the world's 7th largest sailboat! 

On July 14 we celebrated Bastille Day with locals.
  View from Toi Et Moi

Bastille Day also included a local regatta!

Cheering on one of the local boats

A bar, library in a boatyard at Geminga's in Marigot
3 shipping containers and open air roof

"Witch's Tit"-- a popular lagoon anchorage

Ian on a big ship (wreck)

The ruins of Fort Louis watch over Marigot Bay

The BVIs

Got a mid-morning start from St. John, to Jost Van Dyke, six miles ahead.  We had heard

Customs at Jost Van Dyke

JVD's main drag

that if you get there too late in the afternoon you wouldn't find a mooring.  Thought we would sail but took the more direct route and grabbed a mooring by noon.  Cleared customs and immigrations in Great Harbor with no problems. Opti would need to be checked in Tortola but her paperwork was in order.  Walked around the small beachfront community, finding a bakery, small grocery store, and a number of beach bars and restaurants.  Went back to Toi et Moi  for lunch, saving the beach restaurants for this evening.  Then the parade started. Catamaran after catamaran started filling the anchorage, heading to shore with 8 people in their overloaded inflatables.  It was truly an invasion of the charter boats!  I don't know how many boats eventually filled the anchorage but I only counted 3 cruising monohulls.  Dinghied to shore for dinner at "world famous" Foxys to find we needed reservations.  They did find a spot for us in a loud corner and didn't want the $28 BBQ special so we decided to try a little less famous place and had a great meal at Corsairs.  Headed back to the boat and listened to the island music from Foxys long into the night.  Paid our $30 mooring fee for the night but decided to leave the next day for something a little different.

Approaching Sopers Hole

Woke up to find the parade got an earlier start than we did!  With so many harbors around, we decided to go wherever the wind pointed us and sail.  It felt so good to NOT hear the motor and we relished messing about under sail.  It looked like the cats all headed to Sandy Cay, so we tacked towards Tortola, ultimately heading to Soper's Hole, where we would try checking Opti in again.  Although home to a couple of charter companies, the mix in the harbor was cruiser heavy.  We actually found a spot to anchor in about 20 feet of clear water  and good holding. Could skip the $30/night mooring ball here!  This was Jon's favorite anchorage to date.  The surrounding steep mountains remind him of the best of both worlds; clear Caribbean water and WV.  

The next morning I tried repeatedly to contact the vet as directed at Jost Van Dyke clearance only to find out that he was on vacation.  So we rented a car (Suzuki Jimmy; seems smaller than a Liberty Jeep and wondering how they get away using that old GMC name) good for these roads/mountains. Traversed the island via spectacular coastal road to capital Road Harbour stopping at selected marinas and bars along the way.  Nanny Cay the most interesting but the Pub had excellent conch fritters!  Moorings chartering hub, provisioned RiteWay grocery store and Tico wine store where we once again discovered a different white and red in plastic bottles (ok, we're not purist but works well on boat and beats boxed wine), all accomplished despite a construction detour in Road Harbor.  Continued around the coast visiting Paraquita Bay before turning up mountainous Ridge Road at Long Swamp to head back. This breathtaking road has incredible views and hairpin turns to sharpen your focus not to mention using the lowest gear up & down as it winds down through National Park to spectacular Cane Garden Bay.  There, as the sun began to set, we caught our breaths, diaphragmatic or not, with Caribs and lime slice.  Just made it back to the boat in time to dinghy a worrisome Opti to shore for  her well deserved walk.  And still she wanted to play duck on deck afterwards.  She was rewarded with and wolfed down BBQ sauce infused dry food , one of her favorites.

We off-loaded the heavy provisioning  the next morning and before returning the Jimmy took a short drive on Frenchman's Cay to see what we could see by land having previously dinghied it via Sopers Hole cut.  This proved to be unwise as Jon backed into a rock and a hard spot on a hairpin turn (driver's error) resulting in a situation where we couldn't  move foreword or backward, and damaging the front fender.  Dwayne from the rental place drove out to extricate us.  With a push of the 4-wheel drive BUTTON (Jon had been looking for a freakin gear shift on Ridge Road and deduced it wasn't 4x!) and Jon and I lap sitting on the spinning rear wheel side, the car backed enough to complete the tight turn damage still intact.  Spent the rest of the day worrying about what this little adventure would cost us and finally located another vet and cleared Opti ($40).  Car estimate arrived the next day and were almost pleased that it was only $200, considering they had our $500 deposit.  

It was time to move on.  The next day we attempted to raise the anchor.  No matter how

At anchor in Benures Bay

hard we tried or how many RPMs we gave it, nada.  We were actually pulling the bow down.  Asked Jon to take a dive and see what the problem was and he immediately saw the anchor off the ground and wrapped in an old mooring chain and danforth anchor and chain.  After I let out some of our chain, Jon was able to dislodge our claw and we were free.  Only thing left was to pick up Jon, diesel, water and ice; done in that order.  Next stop, Benures Bay on Norman Island, bypassing the crowded Bight anchorage in favor of some peace, quiet and amazing snorkeling.  With only 3 or 4 boats and a few sea turtles keeping us company, we decided to stay another day.  

Our friends from St. John,
Sandy and Ray

Our friends from St. John's, Ray and Sandy on "Megerin"' were on the move as well.  After a side trip to the Caves of Norman Island and more snorkeling, we met up with them in Great Harbor, Peter's Island.  This was another large anchorage with plenty of room and a harbor away from the Peter Island Resort, where we hiked and swam the next day.  After 2 nights we decided to head to Virgin Gorda.

Tried to sail the 10 or so miles but were going nowhere slowly.  Wind on our nose again.  Cranked up the Perkins with Fallen Jerusalem in sight.  Even thought about stopping to take advantage of the rocks and caves, but continued on, past the Baths as it was now later in the afternoon.  Dropped the hook in Spanish Town, in front of Ray and Sandy.  Odd how paths keep crossing when you are cruising.  Explored the town, stocked up on some basics and filled an empty propane tank.  Took long walks and took time to relax.

Jon chillin'

THE BATHS!

We pulled up anchor on my birthday, June 13, and headed for the Baths early enough to snag a mooring.  What a fantastic place!  It is as beautiful as rumored and we spent several hours snorkeling, climbing and exploring both the Baths and Devil's Bay.  Around lunchtime we headed up the coast to Gorda Sound, towing the dinghy for the 6 mile trip.  Right as we prepared to enter the challenging cut between Angilla Cut and Mosquito Island

we noticedthe dinghy totally awash; the inflatable tubes Jon repurposed around her hull keeping the F10 from sinking.  Slowed to idle and tried to pump it out without luck.  Thought

NOT The Baths

about anchoring just before the cut but variables were not good for it.  Decided to carry on, got through the cut and grabbed a mooring at Leverick Bay Resort.  Using the davits, a pump and a bucket we were able to bail the F10.  I was ready for a good dinner ashore.  Wasn't in the mood for the BBQ buffet so asked around for alternatives and took a cab to a great place overlooking the harbor and Toi et Moi.  Got back to the resort in time to see the Jumbie stilt dancers.  A good time was had by all!

Enjoying The Baths

The next day was spent exploring Virgin Gorda by car, this time without incident!  Worked our way north to south, stopping at The Baths, this time for sushi.  Worked our way to the tip of the island to discover the ruins of an old copper mine.  Our final leg took us through Gorda Peak National Park.  What beautiful islands!  We will be sad to move on.

Copper Mill Ruins

Gorda Peak National Park
Elevation 1,348 ft.
Sir Francis Drake Channel to the right

The Last Spanish Virgin, Thomas and John

What the heck is this?

Finally, our new oven!

After installing our new oven and scraping the garden off the bottom, we left Salinas the evening of May 19, taking advantage of the nighttime calms. Winds on our nose, we knew we would be motoring.  After 17 hours we dropped the hook behind Pirate Cay in Culebra, the Last Spanish Virgin island.  Surrounded by mountains, the anchorage was fairly well protected and the holding was good.  Dinghied Opti over to the town Dinghy dock after visiting Double Trouble, whom we met in Salinas.  Dropped Opti back on the boat, then visited the other Dinghy Dock; this one the  local cruisers bar and restaurant. 

Our stop to change the alternator belt

Spent the next two days exploring this wonderful Puerto Rican outpost.  Walked and dinghied around the compact town, then rented a golf cart to see the rest of the island.  Water, beaches and views were spectacular.  Saturday, May 24, we raised the hook about 0925 to move on to St. Thomas, 20 miles away. Noticed the engine temperature rising right as we were going through the reef so did a quick u-turn, grabbed a mooring provided free in this outer anchorage and found a broken alternator belt.  No problem as we had a spare and quickly continued on our way, arriving well before1600 and anchoring of Water Island in Charlotte Amalie.   

Hook, Line and Sinker in Frenchtown

Haulover Cut, Charlotte Amailie

Dinghied in to Crown Harbor Marina the next day to explore the downtown area.  After a fairly long walk and one refreshment stop at Hook, Line and Sinker and checked out the historic Avery's Boathouse docks.  However, Charlotte Amalie was a ghost town. No cruise ships in port means nothing is open.  Hiked back to French-town to find a bite to eat and then took a Safari bus back to our dinghy.  Decided to head further east the next morning. Against my better judgement, Jon decided to chance Haulover Cut and we were able to track our walking path from yesterday, getting a view of the downtown harbor, complete with a cruise boat.  Decided to move on anyway!

STYC

It was beautiful motoring along the coast.  We passed sites I remembered from my senior high school trip.  This time it was a bit more built up! We had called St. Thomas Yacht Club ahead of time to find out about reciprocity and grabbed a mooring there for $5.  Bruce and Al made us feel very welcome and opened all their facilities to us. Reminded us of the Upper Keys Sailing Club.  The next day way caught a cab to Red Hook to try to find a back up alternator belt and to explore another side of the island.  Although  there is an excellent chandlery there, we had to hop on a Safari bus to take us to NAPA in Charlotte Amalie.  So, for $2 we were able to see the whole island and get the belt!   Tuesday's and Friday's the STYC serves dinner and we were lucky enough to make it back for a great meal.

After another rolly night on the mooring we decided to head to the smallest Virgin, St.

Caneel Bay
Opti is NOT on the beach

John.  The crossing, although short, was a bit rough so we opted to head in to Cruz Bay.  Lots of private moorings and no room to anchor led us around the corner to Caneel Bay in the USVI National Park. With Jon's senior discount we were able to moor in a beautiful  cove surrounded by white beaches for $7.50 a night.  The only down side-- no dogs on the beach. 

Safari bus in St. Thomas

The next day we dinghied around the corner to explore Cruz Bay.  Cute, Carbbean town. Reminded me a bit of a miniature Key West, without a lot of the tacky tourist stuff.  Walked to the National Park Service office to find out more about the island and pay for the mooring.  The helpful volunteers at the office suggested we take the bus out to Coral Harbor to see more of the island. Great idea for $1.  Met Ray and Sandy who guided us along the way.  Got out at Skinny Legs, an island landmark, and had lunch.  Then hiked around the bay, following the goats.  Ran into Ray and Sandy again on the bus ride back and ended up sharing the sunset with them at High Tides.  They tried to convince us to stay another day and head to another of St. John's harbors but we were anxious to head to the British  Virgin Islands.

The next morning, after sneaking Opti ashore, dinghying to the floating pay station and heading over to Megerin to say goodbye to our new friends, we pointed our bow towards Jost Van Dyke and our next adventure. 

Salinas

We have been enjoying life on the hook in Salinas,PR for about a month.  Staying a bit longer than planned. Our  Tasco oven finally bit the dust after over 30 years of service (at least).  We could have done without as our stovetop was working, but surviving the Carribean without scones, muffins, cookies, and brownies was not an option.   We ended up ordering one from the states and are currently waiting for it to be shipped here then installed by Jon.   This down time has allowed us to catch up on some maintenance and repairs.  I've freshened the teak and Jon has been head at work on the electrical.  We've also ordered  a new VHF.  

Ian enjoying some warm water

But in the meantime, we have had time to welcome friends and

Alexandra, me, Francis ,
Cheryl & Kim

family and enjoy some time traveling around this beautiful country, meeting up wth locals and reconnecting with fellow cruisers!  First Ian came down for a week before reporting back to Alaska on his next tour aboard Polar Resolute.  Then my good friend, Kim, spent a long weekend on the boat trying to catch a little R and R before heading back to her daily grind.

Mexican Train 

Our daily grind continues with a bit of work and a little play.  Sundays,

Opti enjoying a swim at the beach

the local cruisers' bar hosts a dominoes game called Mexican Train.  There  is a BBQ every Friday at the snack bar at the marina where both locals and cruisers gather.  I try to paddle board a few times a week and add a little SUP yoga into the mix.  Dinghy rides to the local islet allows us to swim, scrape the bottom of the dinghy and walk Opti all on the same trip.  Walking or biking to the bakery or Selectos, the local grocery store, combines both work and play!   After all, cruising, like retirement, is a full time job!

Cruising along the Puerto Rican coast

At anchor in Boqueron from Gallaways Restaurant

First stop, Boqueron.  After a breezy motor into the wind, we arrived at the resort town of Boqueron. A weekend haven for college students, the town was relatatively empty for our Tuesday arrival. Many shops and restaurants close during the week but we did manage to enjoy a cold refreshment and a light bite along the water and picked up a few basics at the minimart. We met several ex-pats who have taken up residence in the relatively new construction around the area. 

 Mangrove dingy beach with
 Toi et Moi in the background

The lighthouse at Cabo Roja

The next morning we took off  towards Cabo Roja, the southwest tip of Puerto Rico, only 8 miles away.  The winds were in our favor so we hoisted the cat sail shortly after raising the hook.  Flapping around in the sail was a loose reef block. The pin had fallen out but Jon found it on the deck and quickly secured it.  We had a great sail to an idyllic but rocky anchorage, averaging 5-6 knots.  Decided to head to shore later in the day to explore. Dinghied up to what looked like a small beach in between the mangroves. Very shallow and very silty. Sunk down to my knees!  Then proceeded to hike a trail that led us to a beautiful cove and popular spot for local beach goers.  We continued up the hill to the restored lighthouse where we walked around the cliffs backdown to our dinghy.  A controlled burn left the landscape barren except for the remnants of burned out Turks Head cacti.  A strangely beautiful site. With the sun beginning to set we headed back to Toi et Moi.

Exploring Guilligan's Island

Jon relaxing after a day of exploring

After an uncomfortable rolling night in the open anchorage we

raised the anchor a little after 7, headed to Guanico and Guilligans Island. Rounded the point and were in the Caribbean before 8.  The southern coastline was dotted with small hills of equal size and lined with smaller communities along the way. Taller mountains in the background shadowed the hills.  Made excellent time motoring and were anchored and relaxing at the

local watering hole by 1:30.  The outside anchorage is far removed from the town, one side lined by a resort giving way to a small residential area on a bluff. Around the corner is another, smaller anchorage lined with mangroves and Guilligans Island, a national preserve.  Enjoyed a fresh pizza and wine at the resort that evening and spent the next day exploring the preserve and dry forest the area is known for. We could have stayed longer but our provisions were running low.  Time to move on.

Ponce-- Named after ???

As we are not early risers, we decided to break up our trip to Salinas with a stop at Ponce, Puerto Rico's second largest city, 20 miles away. This section of the trip provided more industrial

Parque de Bombas- PR's 1st fire station

scenery and, for the first time in these waters, we saw large ships.  In the distance, cranes, lifts and tanks dotted the horizon.  All this was from the port city of Ponce.  We anchored at the Ponce Yacht and Fishing Club in 27 feet of water across from the port.  Dinghied to shore to check on reciprocal privileges with the St. Pete Yacht Club and were told we could use some of their facilities for $10/day/person.  Not the best deal but we were glad to have a hot shower and a good meal.  The next morning we took off for Salinas after Jon replaced a missing engine bolt.

About 8 miles from Ponce lies Isla Caja de Muertos (Coffin Island).  This national park sounded like a great place to explore with a lighthouse, caves, and beaches but the weekend crowds were all headed in that direction so we decided to visit another non-weekend time!

Early morning view of Salinas Harbor

We dropped the hook in a very well protected Salinas harbor at 1400.  Marina De Salinas offers their amenities (showers, pool, wifi, dinghy dock etc) to cruisers for $75/2weeks so we dinghied ashore to register.  Ran into our good friend Will in the snack bar then went into town to find Cheryl who was at the local cruisers bar playing dominoes.  Had a pretty decent, relatively inexpensive dinner with them and then headed back to Toi et Moi to enjoy a peaceful anchorage. I think we may be here a while!