Day 50: The Other Side of Providenciales

T&C, we could stay indefinitely.  Here's an update from Jon.

Old and new sail

Just before leaving Turtle Cove, we met two couples on cats (seems mono hulls shy away from the channel).  A German couple sailed an older Dean from South Africa to T&C via Brazil; the American couple on a modern Leopard from St. Marten.  Both had us over for dinner.  Despite the F40's large cockpit, cats do appear better suited for entertaining on those large aft decks.  Peter and Helga laying up also for a sail and to have their SS bow support for their roller furling fabricated new as it broke enroute which in turn shredded their head sail.  Henry & Lynn bought their cat via the Moorings charter program five years ago; contract up, they're sailing (their boat now) to the Chesapeake area.  We've never actually known someone who bought a boat via Moorings so they gave us all the ins and outs of it. We were amazed; the cat looked brand new after 5 years chartered!  Still we've learned from them that, in weather, although they may not roll as much as monohulls, they pitch up & down much the same as the F40.  These newly made friends were another reason to stay put but our used replacement sail arrived; time to move on and tweak it.

Sapodilla Bay from Sapodilla Hill

Made Sapodilla Bay on Caicos Bank via West Caicos our first evening.  Beautiful little anchorage but a little rough to the trade winds.  We set out to continue testing the sail the following day, planning to make South End a couple of hours away.  But the sail needed adjustments to the boom beyond the reef point and for some reason didn't enable tacks combined with a reefed cat sail.  So we decided to motor; I glanced over at the instruments as I do periodically and saw the gauge showing no RPM.  My eyes shifted right to the temperature gauge...running hot.  Should we drop anchor to troubleshoot in 20 knots or sail against the wind and brain the sail/tacking problem.  We were off the government port and Five Cays but a tug was moored on our other side; decided to sail back to Sapodilla (now familiar) to anchor/repair.  Good choice; as we sailed back another tug appeared towing a large barge in our direction.  We doused the reefed ketch; now downwind doing 7.9 k on the reefed cat sail alone.  By the time we made Sapodilla, I chanced the engine cooled enough, Susan doused the sail, started the diesel briefly and  I set the anchor pretty much where we had before.   On inspection, the alternator V-belt had broken; replaced with a back-up, good to go.  Next morning waiting for a higher tide at Southside...three sailboats arrived to Sapodilla from the Dominican Republic.  It would have made an interesting day but we decided to continue on waving to them as we passed their sterns.

We are now at South Side Marina ($50/day) having anchored off between reefs one night because of

South Side Marina, Provo

an outgoing tide in another somewhat shallow channel dotted with coral heads.  Kai and Dawn, a young couple with crew on an Island Packet drawing 4' passed our anchor continuing into a slip just before dark.   Next morning on an incoming tide, we went in ok, owner Bob graciously directing us to a slip open to port so we could deploy dinghy on that side davits to explore.   Following us, 3 large mono hulls came in.  This is a small cruisers marina and Bob makes everyone feel welcome.

Walked around with Opti where there was moon rock and shore to go in the water; made her day.  She was actually snoring that evening; Susan thought it was me in the cockpit but truth be told sounded more like her.  Badly needed cold only showers felt excellent; felt like new human beings.  Bob started a small bar on the bluff; sure enough come evening voices of all the cruisers and a few locals could be heard up there so we joined the amiable group.  One crew on a  delivery has an Aires wind vane on his boat elsewhere so he is helping us brain ours.  New nylon bushings to reduce friction, not a big expense or job according to Dan.  But we will have to wait until we lay up somewhere for time to do it.

Found on an inland canal!

Saturday was a work day.  I glassed the separated fridge cover (finally got tired of taping it), repositioned/repurposed the aft sail cover as a temporary awning (had it made up wide in case we went with a wider wishbone boom which we didn't), did laundry ($5 + $5' washer & dryer; things ARE high in T&C).   Bob gives cruisers a free ride to grocery store while he has lunch.  Without me to clutter the process, Susan did a great job reprovisioning in the allotted 1 hour.  While she was shopping I  assisted cruisers leaving and coming.  When Susan returned we spent the rest of the afternoon dinghy exploring a maze of nearby little developed canals off the Caicos Bank.

Flutterby and F40s; classic plastics 

Wine on board - bottle , box or??  Susan discovered a wine in a plastic bottle!!  IGA no less. And not bad.  South African "Flutterby", Savignon Blanc much preferred over that Pinot Grigio BOX vino she buys.  Cruisers may be interested - PET bottles reduces Greenhouse gas emissions, are lightweight, virtually unbreakable therefore safer, recyclable and crushable...all good stuff.  "Rich passion fruit flavours ( I'm all for passion) balanced by a fresh grassy edge..." (aromas of dad push mowing the yard), all good.  Small acts and carbon footprints/big changes, environmental awareness; yeah!