Cruising along the Puerto Rican coast

At anchor in Boqueron from Gallaways Restaurant

First stop, Boqueron.  After a breezy motor into the wind, we arrived at the resort town of Boqueron. A weekend haven for college students, the town was relatatively empty for our Tuesday arrival. Many shops and restaurants close during the week but we did manage to enjoy a cold refreshment and a light bite along the water and picked up a few basics at the minimart. We met several ex-pats who have taken up residence in the relatively new construction around the area. 

 Mangrove dingy beach with
 Toi et Moi in the background

The lighthouse at Cabo Roja

The next morning we took off  towards Cabo Roja, the southwest tip of Puerto Rico, only 8 miles away.  The winds were in our favor so we hoisted the cat sail shortly after raising the hook.  Flapping around in the sail was a loose reef block. The pin had fallen out but Jon found it on the deck and quickly secured it.  We had a great sail to an idyllic but rocky anchorage, averaging 5-6 knots.  Decided to head to shore later in the day to explore. Dinghied up to what looked like a small beach in between the mangroves. Very shallow and very silty. Sunk down to my knees!  Then proceeded to hike a trail that led us to a beautiful cove and popular spot for local beach goers.  We continued up the hill to the restored lighthouse where we walked around the cliffs backdown to our dinghy.  A controlled burn left the landscape barren except for the remnants of burned out Turks Head cacti.  A strangely beautiful site. With the sun beginning to set we headed back to Toi et Moi.

Exploring Guilligan's Island

Jon relaxing after a day of exploring

After an uncomfortable rolling night in the open anchorage we

raised the anchor a little after 7, headed to Guanico and Guilligans Island. Rounded the point and were in the Caribbean before 8.  The southern coastline was dotted with small hills of equal size and lined with smaller communities along the way. Taller mountains in the background shadowed the hills.  Made excellent time motoring and were anchored and relaxing at the

local watering hole by 1:30.  The outside anchorage is far removed from the town, one side lined by a resort giving way to a small residential area on a bluff. Around the corner is another, smaller anchorage lined with mangroves and Guilligans Island, a national preserve.  Enjoyed a fresh pizza and wine at the resort that evening and spent the next day exploring the preserve and dry forest the area is known for. We could have stayed longer but our provisions were running low.  Time to move on.

Ponce-- Named after ???

As we are not early risers, we decided to break up our trip to Salinas with a stop at Ponce, Puerto Rico's second largest city, 20 miles away. This section of the trip provided more industrial

Parque de Bombas- PR's 1st fire station

scenery and, for the first time in these waters, we saw large ships.  In the distance, cranes, lifts and tanks dotted the horizon.  All this was from the port city of Ponce.  We anchored at the Ponce Yacht and Fishing Club in 27 feet of water across from the port.  Dinghied to shore to check on reciprocal privileges with the St. Pete Yacht Club and were told we could use some of their facilities for $10/day/person.  Not the best deal but we were glad to have a hot shower and a good meal.  The next morning we took off for Salinas after Jon replaced a missing engine bolt.

About 8 miles from Ponce lies Isla Caja de Muertos (Coffin Island).  This national park sounded like a great place to explore with a lighthouse, caves, and beaches but the weekend crowds were all headed in that direction so we decided to visit another non-weekend time!

Early morning view of Salinas Harbor

We dropped the hook in a very well protected Salinas harbor at 1400.  Marina De Salinas offers their amenities (showers, pool, wifi, dinghy dock etc) to cruisers for $75/2weeks so we dinghied ashore to register.  Ran into our good friend Will in the snack bar then went into town to find Cheryl who was at the local cruisers bar playing dominoes.  Had a pretty decent, relatively inexpensive dinner with them and then headed back to Toi et Moi to enjoy a peaceful anchorage. I think we may be here a while! 

From DR to PR

A week after Susan returned from a scheduled visit to Florida for a work promise and to see friends, we decided to move on before we settled in the DR permanently.  Many thanks to Andy, Gil and Jose, Ron, Fran, Kat and Niño for all their help.  Yoga at the yacht club was especially enjoyed and missed; many thanks to Susan, Virginia and Shanti for their excellent instruction as well as Kathy, Lynn, Veronica and Sara for their sorely needed help.  We fondly remember the wonderful dialogs at JR's, Wendy's, Putulas and Ramona's/Robert's Upper Deck. And, of course, we miss our friends-- Will and Cheryl, who we hope to catch up with, and Sylvio, who sent us on our way with a bottle of wine to enjoy upon our next landfall. Hopefully our paths will meet again soon. So at 0720 Tuesday, March 11th, we let go of Popa's mooring and headed ESE to Puerto Rico.

With a window predicting light ESE winds for two day times backing or clocking to ENE at night the plan was to motor all day and sail at night.  The night wind shift never occurred so the Perkins and gear hammered and hummed away rhythmically in light ocean swells as diesels do.  For the first time since acquiring the F40, Perk's warm lighted instruments kept us company on night watches.  These combined with sea-kindly motion reminded me of friends - Dick Baker's excellent stick-to-iveness over the boatyard summer and what he taught me to keep things running and, although faster and somewhat muffled with sound diminishing foam, the deep pulsating strum of Ken Chopinski's bass and new friend Will who taught me to locate or create schematics (I did both) which enabled me to brain the instrument panel lights to work.  Much appreciated.

Also comforting on those cold, sleepyhead helm watches was Maggy Ashton's Turks head on theF40's wheel; this she magically wove on a sail with Ian and us from Upper Keys Sailing Club, Key Largo to Boot Key Harbor while waiting out the hurricane season in Marathon.  Not only did it help us to keep the rudder aligned, it also came in handy as the wheel started to delaminate, holding sections together until the repair work was done.  Although it's location has shifted south (as appropriate) because the wheel/rudder center has drifted, the Turks head is always a welcoming touch and feel helping us keep the F40 on track, especially on those dark watches.  

At anchor in Mayaquez

We motored more or less along the chart's second contour line of Dominican Republic's spectacular, lush coast, passing Puerto Platta and Sousa.  We had been there by land only last week for Opti's shot.  We couldn't take our eyes off the green coast backed by wave after wave of mountains.  A westerner might see the mountains topped with a low parallel chain of clouds as a long train, it's smoke bellowing behind.  An easterner might see it as puff the magic dragon weaving in and out the layered mountain range.  With the Mona Passage on our minds, we decided not to stop in Samana, as many do, and just continued on.   At about that time Jon began to feel a drag, the F40 slowing from 6 to 4 knots.  Lasting several shifts, it could well have been Mona's opposing current rounding the end of DR much like part of the Gulf Stream rounding Cuba as it passes through the Yucatan Channel.  Eventually as we started Mona's passage proper, her drag gave way to fussy seas.  The F40 lost her harmony and balance, pitching and poling and rolling in confusion but since the seas and wind were still light, she never became too uncomfortable.  Fifty-one hours later we dropped the hook in Mayaguez, PR.

Cruiser friendly US Customs Hosue

2 Medallas and an empanada

Already enjoying the ease of being an American in Puerto Rico.  Cleared customs over the telephone.  Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands are included in our US coverage. No extra charges!  No currency conversions either.  Actually prices are similar to the US.  Found a couple of good eateries in town and enjoyed spending some time exploring a new country. Discovered a new favorite sweet... Brazo Gitanos cakes with a variety of fillings (we got pineapple).  These from the E. Franco bakery, established in 1850!   However, after a rough night at anchor and lack of a fuel dock we decided to move .

Attempted to raise the hook at 0830 and head to Puerto Real and diesel.  Despite what guidebooks may say, the holding ground was good and it took Jon nearly a half hour to extract    anchor and all the extra mud from the bottom.  Left in a dead calm, motoring, once again, close to the shoreline, inside the reef.

Fuel dock at puerto Real

  Arrived at the fuel dock in Puerto Real at 1130, then anchored.  Drifting   back we realized we were too close to an unoccupied sailboat and had to set the anchor, this time not as close to a Canadian couple on a motor cruiser we had met in Mayaguez. Unlike Mayaguez, this is a much smaller fishing village that is pretty popular on weekends with locals.  Lots of good seafood, a couple of nice beaches, and a great place to explore by water.  Jet skiers(ugh), kayakers, fishing boats, sports fishers and sailors all make this spot a cool place to stay a day.  And that's what we decided to do.

Puerto Real