From DR to PR

A week after Susan returned from a scheduled visit to Florida for a work promise and to see friends, we decided to move on before we settled in the DR permanently.  Many thanks to Andy, Gil and Jose, Ron, Fran, Kat and Niño for all their help.  Yoga at the yacht club was especially enjoyed and missed; many thanks to Susan, Virginia and Shanti for their excellent instruction as well as Kathy, Lynn, Veronica and Sara for their sorely needed help.  We fondly remember the wonderful dialogs at JR's, Wendy's, Putulas and Ramona's/Robert's Upper Deck. And, of course, we miss our friends-- Will and Cheryl, who we hope to catch up with, and Sylvio, who sent us on our way with a bottle of wine to enjoy upon our next landfall. Hopefully our paths will meet again soon. So at 0720 Tuesday, March 11th, we let go of Popa's mooring and headed ESE to Puerto Rico.

With a window predicting light ESE winds for two day times backing or clocking to ENE at night the plan was to motor all day and sail at night.  The night wind shift never occurred so the Perkins and gear hammered and hummed away rhythmically in light ocean swells as diesels do.  For the first time since acquiring the F40, Perk's warm lighted instruments kept us company on night watches.  These combined with sea-kindly motion reminded me of friends - Dick Baker's excellent stick-to-iveness over the boatyard summer and what he taught me to keep things running and, although faster and somewhat muffled with sound diminishing foam, the deep pulsating strum of Ken Chopinski's bass and new friend Will who taught me to locate or create schematics (I did both) which enabled me to brain the instrument panel lights to work.  Much appreciated.

Also comforting on those cold, sleepyhead helm watches was Maggy Ashton's Turks head on theF40's wheel; this she magically wove on a sail with Ian and us from Upper Keys Sailing Club, Key Largo to Boot Key Harbor while waiting out the hurricane season in Marathon.  Not only did it help us to keep the rudder aligned, it also came in handy as the wheel started to delaminate, holding sections together until the repair work was done.  Although it's location has shifted south (as appropriate) because the wheel/rudder center has drifted, the Turks head is always a welcoming touch and feel helping us keep the F40 on track, especially on those dark watches.  

At anchor in Mayaquez

We motored more or less along the chart's second contour line of Dominican Republic's spectacular, lush coast, passing Puerto Platta and Sousa.  We had been there by land only last week for Opti's shot.  We couldn't take our eyes off the green coast backed by wave after wave of mountains.  A westerner might see the mountains topped with a low parallel chain of clouds as a long train, it's smoke bellowing behind.  An easterner might see it as puff the magic dragon weaving in and out the layered mountain range.  With the Mona Passage on our minds, we decided not to stop in Samana, as many do, and just continued on.   At about that time Jon began to feel a drag, the F40 slowing from 6 to 4 knots.  Lasting several shifts, it could well have been Mona's opposing current rounding the end of DR much like part of the Gulf Stream rounding Cuba as it passes through the Yucatan Channel.  Eventually as we started Mona's passage proper, her drag gave way to fussy seas.  The F40 lost her harmony and balance, pitching and poling and rolling in confusion but since the seas and wind were still light, she never became too uncomfortable.  Fifty-one hours later we dropped the hook in Mayaguez, PR.

Cruiser friendly US Customs Hosue

2 Medallas and an empanada

Already enjoying the ease of being an American in Puerto Rico.  Cleared customs over the telephone.  Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands are included in our US coverage. No extra charges!  No currency conversions either.  Actually prices are similar to the US.  Found a couple of good eateries in town and enjoyed spending some time exploring a new country. Discovered a new favorite sweet... Brazo Gitanos cakes with a variety of fillings (we got pineapple).  These from the E. Franco bakery, established in 1850!   However, after a rough night at anchor and lack of a fuel dock we decided to move .

Attempted to raise the hook at 0830 and head to Puerto Real and diesel.  Despite what guidebooks may say, the holding ground was good and it took Jon nearly a half hour to extract    anchor and all the extra mud from the bottom.  Left in a dead calm, motoring, once again, close to the shoreline, inside the reef.

Fuel dock at puerto Real

  Arrived at the fuel dock in Puerto Real at 1130, then anchored.  Drifting   back we realized we were too close to an unoccupied sailboat and had to set the anchor, this time not as close to a Canadian couple on a motor cruiser we had met in Mayaguez. Unlike Mayaguez, this is a much smaller fishing village that is pretty popular on weekends with locals.  Lots of good seafood, a couple of nice beaches, and a great place to explore by water.  Jet skiers(ugh), kayakers, fishing boats, sports fishers and sailors all make this spot a cool place to stay a day.  And that's what we decided to do.

Puerto Real